Saturday, May 23, 2009

Laos
A country with a tragic history of conquests over the centuries and the more recent senseless bombings the US did during the Vietnam war is now my home for while. In an unsuccessful attempt to slow the Viet Cong's resupply routes into South Vietnam we carpet bombed the hell out this beautiful country. More bombs were dropped in the 10 years of the "secret" war on neutral Laos than were dropped during the whole of World War 2. The villagers lived in caves during this onslaught watching there villages and farms permanently destroyed by bombs and the defoliant agent orange. Today there are vast areas that still will not support life. Unexploded ordinance is an ever present danger and the war continues as the number of beggars grows in the streets. They are innocently maimed by cluster bombs and mines while going about their daily lives.

You would think they are angry at the US still but they bear no resentment. They smile and hold out their hands hoping our sense of decency will prevail. Yes, I do feel a sense of responsibility at the atrocities committed by our country. But I cannot help them all and being here spending dollars on tourism and telling people back home their story is the best way I can help them all.

I spent a day in Vientiane the capital of Laos. Today it flags in comparison to it's neighbor Thailand. The communist regime has held back growth and the restrictions on free trade make for a sad state. Former French colonial buildings are tired, dirty and in disrepair. Beggars, victims of an ending war sleep on doorsteps or hold out their hands to me making feeble attempts. In many ways it's like all of South East Asia with the many motor bikes and tuk tuks (motorbike taxis) crowding the streets. Everywhere someone is selling something on the street.
I enjoyed a nice meal of grilled Mekong fish and sticky rice in a makeshift restaurant on the banks of the Mekong while drinking their famous beer lao watching Lao families eating and laughing. They are a proud and happy people despite all they have gone through.

I am now in the holy city of Luanne Prabang in Northern Laos. It's lush and mountainous. There are ancient wats and waterfalls to discover, rivers to kayak, caves to explore. The food and accommodations are cheap so naturally twenty somethings from around the world have made it their playground. I am seeing this place from a different perspective than those kids using the wisdom of my years to appreciate Laos for all its been through and what it has to offer the World.

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